OSTERIA CANDALLA – CAMAIORE
It’s the setting of your dreams: a stone-built inn surrounded by woods and beside a river, overlooked by pretty terraces and a little beach complete with banana trees, the ideal spot for an aperitif. The food is typical of the area, based on meat and vegetables: start with the unparalleled tordelli, a local recipe that changes every few kilometres – here they’re the Camaiore version, filled with ragout.

LOCANDA DI BRUNO – VALLECCHIA
A few minutes’ drive from delightful Pietrasanta, this temple to authentic flavours was opened by Bruno Tessa, a veteran of Versilia cuisine and hospitality. Like its location, the food is halfway between the sea and the mountains, with sophisticated fish dishes and excellent meat.

POZZO DI BUGIA – QUERCETA
Gaio Giannelli, the creator and patron of this place, is a veritable Versilia institution. He likes to call himself a “pirate of flavour”, and he has built a luxury trattoria with a very special atmosphere. In summer, the intimate and original interior opens onto a beautiful garden shaded by olive trees, where you can savour a truly seasonal menu, with hand-made pasta dishes and meat cooked in the wood oven.

OSTERIA A’ PAGLIAI – QUERCETA
Also in Querceta, at the foot of the Apuan Alps, there’s a small tavern that’s much loved by celebrities visiting Versilia and seeking good food and cooler air. It’s a magical place surrounded by green nature, and every corner is a new discovery. The food is of the land, specialising in superb quality meat grilled over the wood fire.

RISTORANTE ARGINVECCHIO – CAPEZZANO PIANORE
A restaurant that smells of roses: the ones lovingly grown by owners Ivano and Lorenza beside the kitchen garden that provides the delicious vegetables used in the traditional dishes served to guests. These include fried salt cod, tagliata of Scottona beef and a simple but utterly delicious prosciutto skilfully sliced by hand.