Every summer, Siena (just over an hour from The Mall Firenze) dresses up in the colours of the 17 Contradas, the districts into which the city is divided, to celebrate the Palio. One of the world’s oldest and most spectacular horse races, the Palio is held twice a year, on 2 July (Palio di Provenzano) and again on 16 August (Palio dell’Assunta): 90 seconds of pure adrenaline, surrounded by several days of festivities all around the city.
The best way to get into the mood the evening before the Palio is to book seats for dinner at the Cena della Prova Generale in one of the Contradas, staying overnight at the Grand Hotel Continental – Starhotels Collection, the only 5-star hotel in the city centre.
When the bells ring at 8 o’clock on the morning of the Palio, enjoy breakfast at Pasticceria Nannini, in Via Banchi di Sopra since 1910. Then head to Piazza del Campo for the Provaccia, the last trial race before the official event.
If you haven’t booked yourself a seat on the stands or a place at a window overlooking the square, no worries! You can stand in the middle of the square with the locals, for free, and the unusual shell shape of the Piazza del Campo ensures that you will be able to see the Zucchino (the jockey’s helmet, bearing the colours of the Contrada) from any position. So there’s really no need to go early to “get a good spot” in the square: enjoy a walk around town instead. Just be sure to enter Piazza del Campo before the last gates close in Via Dupré, at 18:15 on 2 July and at 17:45 on 16 August.
Visit the Cathedral or the Santa Maria della Scala museum complex before enjoying lunch at Osteria Le Logge, Enoteca I Terzi or Mugolone.
In the afternoon, follow the rhythm of the rituals in the contradas: the blessing of the horse in each Contrada (at 15:00 on 2 July, 14:30 on 16 August), and then – at 16:30 on 2 July and at 15:50 on 16 August – the Passeggiata Storica, a parade in historic costumes, starting at the cathedral square and ending in Piazza del Campo.
The race itself takes place at 19:30 on 2 July, 19:00 on 16 August: three laps around the square at breath-taking speed. The celebrations continue afterwards in the bars and restaurants around the square, and especially in the winning Contrada, where visitors are welcome to join in the victory celebrations!