When you cross the Arno, Florence reveals its greener, more creative and down-to-earth side, dotted with artisan workshops and glimpses of the city’s true soul.

The day begins with breakfast at Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno, with its fifties vibe and superb coffee blends. Not far away is the steep but picturesque Costa San Giorgio. Along the way, a stop at the Bardini Gardens offers one of the most stunning views of Florence; it’s even more spectacular in spring, when the wisteria is flowering.

We continue to Forte di Belvedere, the entrance to the Boboli Gardens, for a stroll among tree-shaded avenues, statues and Renaissance features including the marvellous Buontalenti Grotto. This brings us out at the back of Palazzo Pitti, symbol of Medici power and treasure chest of museums and art collections.

For an unexpected visit, the Museo della Specola offers a fascinating trip into science and natural history, complete with zoological collections and renowned anatomical waxworks.

Lunchtime: in the Santo Spirito neighbourhood, Babae combines contemporary food and a lively atmosphere. Nearby, Brunelleschi’s masterpiece the Basilica of Santo Spirito dominates one of the city’s most vibrant squares, even busier on the second Sunday of the month, with the stalls of the Antiques Market.

In the afternoon, the Brancacci Chapel boasts some of the most important art of the Renaissance, with frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino.

At aperitif time, there’s a choice between the intimate ambience of Il Santino or a visit to the Loggia Roof Bar.

And for dinner, there’s Tuscan tradition at Antico Ristoro di Cambi, fish at Fuor d’Acqua or a more laid-back mood at Santarosa Bistrot, next to the ancient city walls.

The evening continues with cocktails and music: we can stay in San Frediano at Mad – Souls & Spirits, or return to Piazza Santo Spirito and enjoy a cocktail at Volume.