Just over an hour’s drive from The Mall Firenze, Forte dei Marmi has an irresistible radical chic allure that combines retro and luxury.

A wonderful first taste of this is breakfast at the storied Caffè Principe, reopened and restyled by acclaimed architect Michele Bönan.

The day continues with one of Forte’s absolute essentials, a bicycle, hired from Cicli Maggi: a classic Graziella to take you along the seafront, or an e-bike to venture into the Apuan Alps, perhaps with a focaccia from the historic Da Valè (established 1924)

For the afternoon, check out the programme of cultural events at Caffè della Versiliana or Villa Bertelli, which in July and August become venues for the concerts and shows of Versiliana Festival and Villa Bertelli Live.

Another Forte dei Marmi ritual is an aperitif on the elegant 67 Sky Lounge terrace at hotel Principe Forte dei Marmi, the ever-popular Almarosa or La Capannina di Franceschi; go back after dinner to enjoy one of their legendary evenings. But first, dinner in one of the many unmissable restaurants in town, such as the Versilia spin-off of the classic Florentine trattoria Tredici Gobbi or, if fish is your thing, The Fratellini’s or Pesce Baracca.

On Sunday morning, stroll among the numerous stalls of the weekly market or – if it’s the second weekend of the month, the antiques market.

And now for a day at the beach: Alpemare, Santa Maria or Maitò Beach; if you’re looking for something more exclusive, Bagno Silvio, Bagno Piero and Bagno Bruno for a more retro feel, or the colourful Alle Boe. Places to spend all day, with excellent restaurants for lunch, aperitifs and dinner right on the water’s edge.

(ph. Andrea Dughetti, Pasquale Paradiso, Claudio Poggio, Jennifer O Brien)