Halfway between Florence and Pisa and an hour’s drive from The Mall Firenze, San Miniato is a minor Tuscan gem that stands atop a hill, once on the ancient Via Francigena. Famous for its wonderful white truffles, whose aroma fills the streets and kitchens every autumn, the town has a cultured, refined soul made of art, history and genuine flavours.

The heart of the old city is Piazza del Duomo, dominated by the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta e San Genesio and the slender Torre di Matilde, named after the countess of Tuscany Matilde di Canossa, who is thought to have been born right here, in Palazzo dei Vicari. Also nearby is the Bishops’ Palace, home to the Bishop to this day.

A little further and we come to Piazza della Repubblica and the magnificent Bishops’ Seminary Palace, which follows the outline of the ancient city walls. Don’t miss the sumptuously decorated Sanctuary of the Holy Crucifix and the Museo del Palazzo Comunale e del Loretino, containing frescoes and storied rooms that speak of the town’s political and spiritual life.

Great choices for lunch are Osteria L’Upupa or La Piccola Osteria del Tartufo, where Tuscan cuisine combines with superb local products: porcini mushrooms, grilled meat and, of course, truffles.

After lunch, a visit to the Church of San Domenico, whose austere facade conceals a fabulous Baroque interior; and MUME – the Museum of Memory, with its moving account of life in San Miniato during the Second World War.

Our final stop is the Tower of Frederick II – built in the 8th century and faithfully reconstructed after the war – giving stunning views over the town and the hills all around.

And if you’re visiting in the last three weekends of November, you’ll find San Miniato transformed into a foodie capital by the National White Truffle Festival, with intoxicating aromas, cooking demos, tastings and market stalls enlivening the historic centre from dawn to dusk.